Land of Rulers

By: Enrique Virgilio Reyes

Part of the history of Totonicapán says it was one of the most important sites of the K'iche' Domain before the Spanish invasion and colonization. Some data of the historians suggest that the k'iche'es had for diverse reasons, habitual mobility in the location of the seat of the government. One of the oldest of these diverse locations is a place called Otzoyá. It is known to have been later relocated to the north between Patacaj and Paquí and finally located at the site of Chuí Mekenhá. Chuí Mekenhá, according to Jorge Luis Arriola, is spoken of in reference to its hot waters and thermal springs, which exist at the Departmental principality. The word Totonicapán comes later from the nahuatl. "Atotonilco" or "totonilco" is a toponym that refers to a place of hot waters. During the colonization this city was one of the largest townships, and its importance was not only from its location on an important trade route, but also was a center of indigenous uprisings against the Spanish domination. In this manner, in 1820, it produced an uprising led by Atanasio Tzul and Lucas Aguilar. The population is predominantly K'iche' Mayan. The dances are part of the culture of the area and are celebrated at patron festivals. Among them we find La Conquista, El Venado, Enmascarados, Mejicanos, Xacalcojes, Pascarines, and Moros y Cristianos. One of the most interesting places in the Department is the principality of San Cristóbal Totonicapán that has a convent dating to the colonial era that has style elements from Renaissance, baroque and ultrabaroque. San Andrés Xecul has a facade of popular baroque style and San Francisco el Alto has one of the grandest plazas in all of the country.

The scent of pines

By: Luis Villar Anleu

The mountain chain that crosses the region, from the Sierra de Sija to the peak of María Tecún, creates three geographic plains. Beginning at the peak, and extending for more than 45 kilometers to the northeast side, the lands descend in smooth slopes until the end of the territory. The terminus is a narrow wedge that is less than 1500 meters in altitude along the course of the Catambor River, one of the first tributaries of the Río Negro or Chixoy. This slope forces water to flow into the Río Negro, which finally makes its way to the Gulf of Mexico.

On the opposite side, corresponding to the southeast plane the long peak descends less although at a steeper slope. The end of this slope is the expansive high plain of the Quetzaltenango Valley. The mountain chain serves as the boundary of the valley, while Totonicapán contains the lands in its southwest region of this plain.

The disposition of the mountain chain, as small as it is, has enormous implications for the geography and ecology of this Department. One of its evident functions is the production of water. The unexpected quantity of its streams, that come down from the north, unite with groundwaters that supply the Río Negro. To the south, the production is scarcer.

The natural attractions of this region are the cliffs of Momostenango and the thermal springs of the Departmental principality, as well as San Miguel Cave, Chumundo-Cárcel Cave, the site of Las Nueve Sillas, La Guaca Thermals, the Momostenango Thermals, Los Chozabales and the scenic route of El Desconsuelo and María Tecún Peak.

Artisanry

By: Francisco Rodríquez Rouanet and Aracely Esquivel

Cotton fabrics

Cotton fabrics are created in all of the municipalities of Totonicapán. The noteworthy items are the güipiles, skirts, sashes, tablecloths, napkins and ribbon ornaments.

Wool fabrics

After Huehuetenango, Totonicapán is second highest in the production of wool fabrics in the country. Noteworthy among them are the blankets, rugs, purses and clothing created in the municipalities of San Bartolo, Momostenango, San Francisco El Alto, Santa María Chiquimula and Santa Lucía La Reforma.

Ceramics

They create both traditional ceramics and glazed pottery. Glazed pottery is only produced in the municipality of Totonicapán. Traditional ceramics are found in the municipalities of Totonicapán, San Cristóbal Totonicapán, Momostenango and Santa María Chiquimula.

Wood products

They work in wood in all of the municipalities of Totonicapán. Games and toys are made in the municipality of Totonicapán. Musical instruments such as guitars and chinchines are created in the municipalities of Totonicapán and Momostenango. Ceremonial masks are made in the municipalities of Totonicapán and San Cristóbal Totonicapán.

It is also noteworthy to mention the boxes painted in brilliant colors and unique to this region, used to package candy in the municipality of Totonicapán.

Construction materials

In all of the municipalities of Totonicapán they make tiles and bricks of clay and in the municipality of Totonicapán they produce roofing tiles.

Traditions

By: Carlos René García Escobar

Cofradías and Hermandades

Totonicapán is another of the Departments deeply ancestral in religious spirituality. Its cofradías continue to exercise the ancient traditions although in frank competition with some hermandades which, as always, are seen in a better light by the parish priests. The strongest cofradía in the Department and its hermandad is San Miguel Arcángel. To this stage we add the Catholic religious organizations of young men and women that also compete in religious practice with the cofradías. The cofradías, on the other hand, are generally made up of elderly members.

Dances

Totonicapán is one of the Departments that presents a rich specter of colonial and pre-colonial dance. In the past decade, at the request of the Casa de la Cultura of Totonicapán and the local branch of INGUAT, the Centro de Estudios Folklóricos was established for the purpose of preserving traditional dance. It is lamentable that the festivals that provided benefit to the regional traditions are not performed any longer.