| Esquipulas, home of the back Christ | |
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Here in Guatemala, it is said that Quirio Cata–o sculpted the Lord of Esquipulas according to the dark skin of the former inhabitants of Chiquimula, who were part of the Chol or Chorti ethnic.
However, architect Eduardo Andrade asserts that when the image was restored, it was discovered that the original color of the sculpture was white. "Years of devotion gave it its peculiar shade, due to the smoke of candles."
Esquipulas patron saint's day is held on January 15, and it is one of the most important religious feasts in Guatemala. Thousands of pilgrims from El Salvador, Honduras, Mexico and other countries, and Guatemalans as well, get together to give veneration to the image of a crucified Black Christ.
The religious feastFor that reason, every year on January 15, the visitor will find Esquipulas full of outdoor sales, offering thousands of colorful articles product of fine handcrafts.
The most memorable souvenir is the little hat of Esquipulas, which consists in a narrow wing hat that has small objects of all kinds hanging from it, made with all sort of materials.
There is also the so called "bread of the Lord", that according to historian Francis Gall, are tablets made with magnesium, sodium, potassium, aluminum, siliceous, iron oxide, and calcium. The tradition of eating them is called by him, geophagia (earth eating), it is a pre-Columbian tradition, and it is practiced by other ethnics such as the Pueblo Indians, from the United States.
These loaves of bread are white objects, usually square shaped, and they have a low relief of a religious motif, such as a cross supported by two ladders. Traditionally, they are used to share the visit to Esquipulas with friends or relatives who were not able to make it.
There is no lack of stamps with images of the Black Christ, and also some interesting images of Jesus, carved inverted, which give the feeling that one is being followed by his sight, when the person who observes walks horizontally.
Foot must do the distance to the basilica, but some devoted persons do at least a part of it on their knees, when they ask for a special favor.
The reason for walking is to enjoy the view of the basilica, which looks majestic as one approaches it, with its white walls and belfries and its huge doors.
Once inside, in spite of the mumbling due to the prayers of devotees, the atmosphere transmits peacefulness, the sculpture of the Crucified Christ stands out and takes the visitor immediately to other eras of Guatemalan history.
The smell of incense, the flames of candles and candlesticks prepare the tourist in a way, so when he or she comes to the altar and looks closely to the silent witnesses that parishioners have left and that grant healings, favors, and even a miracle. These are the "exvotes": small wax figurines that have the shape of a body part or an object, such as a wheelchair. Each one represents a pain that has ceased thanks to divine intervention. Or at least that is what the image's devotees say.
Anyway, after visiting the Black Christ in his basilica, a tour around surrounding streets is worthwhile, because it is certain that one will go home with a curious souvenir.
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Quirio Cata–oOf Portuguese origin, Cata–o was a well-known sculptor and painter, who came to Guatemala from an unknown place. His Portuguese origin is just a mere speculation made by the author Garcia Pelayo, since there are no real records about the date and place of his birth, or date of death. It is also said that he was from Italian origin (due to the last name Cataneo).
It is known with more certainty that he was married to Catalina Mazariegos in Guatemala, and that he had a child with her, named Jeronimo, and it is also known that the couple adopted a few more children.
Some have also doubted if the Black Christ of Esquipulas is a masterpiece of his, but most historians, Miguel Alvarez among them, grants him its paternity, affirming that he sculpted it between 1594 and 1595. It is also known that he left other sculptures in El Salvador and the Dominican Republic.
Places to visitBesides the basilica, baroque church of the XVIII Century that was built in twenty years, don't forget to visit in Chiquimula the aqueduct, the colonial basin, the parochial church dedicated to the Apostle James, the Hill of Morola, and the Ipala lagoon.
Parishioners, pilgrims, and visitors visit the Basilica of Esquipulas.
Travel Team, Prensa Libre.
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