The rabinales were a brave and fighting tribe that gave a strong resistance to the conquering desires. Finally, they lost to the Spanish army and the evangelization influence of Fray Bartolomé de las Casas. The remains of such a conflictive history have created a region of great creative talent, perceived in the architecture, textiles and art.

To start the visit, you have to leave behind the Highway of El Atlántico near El Rancho, kilometer 84 from the Capital City. The highway is in very good conditions and the only inconvenient are the curves provoked in order to cross the mountain of Santa Elena, also this allows you to see the gigantic valley where Salamá, the Departmental Capital City of Baja Verapaz is located.

This city counts with more than ten thousand inhabitants and shelters some architectonic works of great interest. When getting there, two bridges serve as entrance to the urban area, which still maintains the structure and construction of colonial times, even though the earthquake of 1976 affected a great part of the buildings.

"Tz'alam Ha" as they call it in achi language, which means "Boards on water", is the perfect place to go for a walk, since it counts with a beautiful central park or you can climb through the paths of the Cerro de Santa Cruz (Hill of Santa Cruz), where a small chapel at the top gives rest to the traveler.

The covered bridges of Salamá are an urban curiosity that enriches the natural landscape.

The taste of colony, inherited by the Dominican influence can also be found in the neighborhood towns. San Jeronimo, located five kilometers to the north of Road 5 is perfectly outfit to receive the visitors. The great arch on the entrance serves as reception and the central park, kept in perfect state not only has a great architectonic value but also a happy daily life.

The agriculture and economical development of the zone was very prosperous in times when the Dominican friars were in charge of the lands. The vineyards of the Valley in San Jerónimo produced the best wine in the Kingdom of Guatemala, becoming the most important patrimony of the Spaniard metropolis in Central America.

During the XVI Century the mill was built to manufacture sugar, and today it functions as an attractive museum that commemorates the times of this religious government, or where you can enjoy theater plays in the open space.

If you travel to the west from Salamá, nine kilometers from road 5 you will find a small town of great artistic value. San Miguel Chicaj has a beautiful colonial church and an idyllic surrounding, besides being a town that produces a quality textile work, which is popular throughout the entire Republic.

But Rabinal is without a doubt, the real goal of this geocultural journey. Ten kilometers in a road that has been repair during the last years, has open the doors of this site to tourism, since it used to be hidden from visitors due to its difficult access situation.

This place has been left in time, its simple houses and dusty streets captivate the traveler. Walking in Rabinal is a unique experience, since it is almost impossible to find advertising signs, posters or stores, it is even complicated to recognize the few restaurants and hotels of the area, which you will only find if you ask the residents.

Again, the central core of the local life is found in the park. In here, the church and arcade impact with its magnificence. And, it certainly should, it was Fray Bartolome de las Casas himself who founded this city in 1537 as groundwork to continue with its evangelization campaign.

Also, in this central plaza you can buy the delicious oranges that have made Rabinal famous or access to the Internet through a satellite antenna that, nowadays, connects this place with the whole world. A technological contrast that was necessary due to the great percentage of nongovernmental organizations that function in the zone.

This voluntary work is motivated by the sad situation that suffered the zone during the armed conflict. Maybe this is one of the most damaged areas by massacres and where you can listen to hundreds of different stories. Some of them, like the one of Rio Negro, which reminds us of the death of more than one hundred of women and children.

Others have been simply molded in the impressive popular art that occupies the mausoleums built in the local cemetery. Some are pieces of great beauty that not only show its high artistic level but also reflect the cruelty of the human nature.

These pictorial expressions on the mausoleums of Rabinal form now a part of the contemporaneous art of Guatemala.

When the traveler returns, it is impossible not to feel the personal growth accomplished when sharing the deepest side of a country that has been built from its roots.